It’s never too late to head to the Cape. Now, we know y’all are accustomed to Deb’s iconic Nantucket Travel Guide, and we can assure you that masterpiece is coming soon. However, it’s high time we highlight the part of Massachusetts that’s technically still attached to the country, yet oh so island-like in its own way. New England is a land of lobsters and liberty, and Cape Cod is a rich and vibrant expanse of briny beaches, historic homes, and some of the kindest folk you’ll meet. This week we’re spending a week with dear friends of SCOUT: Eliza and Aloise Foster-Phelps. With Eliza’s POV as a Chatham local, the pair gives us the authentic Mass experience. And it’s wicked awesome, if ya don’t say. Ready? Here goes.
Packing list: All you need is an extra sweater, a good book, and a SCOUT Daytripper Tote for the beach. As an avid SCOUT lugger, I’d yet to use a Daytripper in a beach day format, and going forward, I cannot recommend it enough. The Daytripper is fabulous for oceanic over-packers. We’re a group of dorks who wanted to bring two books each, needlepoint projects, sunscreen in all forms, multiple flavors of Cape Cod chips, extra clothes, and plenty of towels. The Daytripper looked at our laundry list and said, “bet.” We forget about how expansive this bag can get, plus the zipper keeps the sand, sand flies, and various natural sprays from creeping in. We carried a vintage New England pattern this trip, however, I’ll be sending my friends a Massachusetts upgrade from the State Collection for future use.
Daytrips: Driving up to Provincetown for an afternoon or taking the ferry to Nantucket for a day was shockingly easy. The two villages have somewhat dichotomous vibes but are equally beautiful. Different people could consider both utopian societies in a way.
A rainy afternoon spent popping into the bookstores, drag shows, and fudge shoppes in P-Town, as it’s known, is an afternoon well spent. Cap your evening off at Sal’s Place, an iconic Italian staple right on the beach. Trust me, you’ve never met kinder people than the staff at Sal's. Their moral code is keeping patrons dry, warm, full, and buzzed during torrential downpours long after you’ve finished your meal and are waiting for your ride. Staff members will sidle up next to you and ask you genuine questions about what’s most important to you in life (while constantly filling your wine glass and giving you house-made fudge free of charge). It makes so much sense that Anthony Bourdain made his start in this beachside haven.
On the other side of the coin, taking a ride on the Nantucket ferry to visit your poshest friends on the island for a day is an experience like no other. You’ve never felt more Americana with your sweater draped over your shoulders and wind in your hair as you cruise the island with the top down in your friend’s old Jeep. The island truly lives up to the hype of being immensely beautiful and sun-soaked in coastal charm. Naturally, you will buy a $50 lobster roll and $20 ice cream, and, boy, will they taste fresh and totally worth it.
Beaches: Lighthouse, Hardings, and Ridgevale are solid Chatham, MA beaches with ample wildlife, space, and waves. These New England waters are full of bobbing seals, sea glass, and sharks (sorry, to mention the “s” word — it was purely for the sake of alliteration). But, genuinely, these crisp salty waters aren’t bathwater-y like the Gulf or Southeast like many of us are used to. Plunging beneath these tides is a truly medicinal experience. With plenty of brine in your hair and salt-stained skin, you’ll take the best beach nap of your life.
Eats: Yes, of course we’ll cover dining out, but there’s nothing like cooking at home in the Cape if you can. Whether you’re crashing with friends or family, or renting an Airbnb, grilling out on a breezy, coastal evening will transport you to an Elin Hilderbrand novel (or Widow’s Bay, if you’re creepy like some of us). There’s nothing like fresh corn, a few oysters, burgers, and a homemade pavlova with fresh berries to lull you into a food coma.
Alas, we can’t all cook. And, if this is your case, head to Mac’s Chatham Fish & Lobster. There are multiple Mac’s along the Cape, and there should be. This place truly has something for everyone. Order a 2 lb. lobster and cause a scene or get the fish tacos. Need a classic, comfort staple? Call in an order to Pizza Shark, and make sure you get their signature “Great White.”
Treats: Please, in the name of all that is holy, go to the Chatham Candy Manor. We know fudge can be polarizing, but good heavens is this fudge decadent. Don’t worry, the Manor has something for everyone. Grab a “Ritzy,” peanut butter Ritz cracker dipped in chocolate, or a “tackle box,” which has every yummy gummy known to womankind. This pink candy tavern is the closest you’ll come to Santa’s workshop, and it’s the perfect treat after you’ve closed all your rings doing the bunny hop at the bandstand on a Friday night.
PSA: If you do not go to Marion’s Pie Shop and get yourself a Chatham Muffin or Cinnamon Nut Roll the size of your head, you may as well cancel your trip. The thing about a Chatham Muffin is that it consists solely of butter, cinnamon, sugar, and kisses from heaven. One of our girlfriends ate a Chatham every day of Aloise & Eliza Foster-Phelps wedding weekend, and their marriage has been blessed ever since. The muffin is sacred, holy, and critical to having a fabulous day on the Cape. Oh, and the pies are phenomenal, by the way.
Honorable Mentions: Baking fresh granola for breakfast by Lover’s Lake, walking into The Chatham Squire for approximately one beer at peak business hours on a Friday night, dropping two live lobsters on the floor during an attempted boil, showering outside after a long day with the seals in the sun, and town walks filled with made up ghost stories.
